Ovoka Farm in Virginia Raises Top-Quality Wagyu Cattle
Settled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Ovoka Farm in Paris, Virginia, stretches into the renowned Shenandoah Valley and boasts a rich and complicated ecosystem that makes it the perfect place to raise top-quality beef cattle.
The history of the sprawling cattle ranch dates back to the early 1700s. The property was originally included in the 3,000-acre Robert “King” Carter land grant and surveyed by George Washington himself in the latter half of the 1700s. If you were to traipse through the fields today, you could actually spot the stone building that Washington used in 1769.
The farm is a mere 40 miles west of Washington, D.C., which seems fitting considering its connection to the country’s past. Ovoka was also seen as an important strategic location during the Civil War. In fact, both armies occupied the property at various points in the conflict.
Fast forward to the 19th century and the farm opened the first equine trotting track in the country and became known as a focal point of equestrian sports in the region.
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Ovoka Farm Today
Three centuries after its beginning, Ovoka continues to serve as a working farm with deep roots in the land. While it no longer hosts armies and ushers in horses for weekend races, owner Karen Way is making sure Ovoka remains a farm committed to tradition while also sustaining families and communities.
Way moved to Ovoka in 2010 but spent her earlier career dedicated to land use and public service as an Urban Planner in downtown Chicago, followed by a dirt lawyer with Rudnick & Wolfe. It wasn’t until she met her first cow that she had an epiphany: farming was what she really wanted to do.
See more: Conservation Considerations Are a Priority for Virginia Farmers
“When the opportunity arose to assume management of Ovoka’s operations, there was no hesitation,” she says. “I started working the next day with the title of farmer and CEO.”
She has since brought on other staff members, each with their own passion and heart for working the land, responsibly raising animals and savoring the adventure of a lifetime each day they get to wake up and work with what is known as the “Crown Jewel” of Fauquier County Manor Home as their backdrop.
But the true heroes of this story are the cattle.
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Revamping an Exotic Breed
Those who work outside the cattle industry may be lost for words when asked to explain where the Wagyu beef in their lunchtime burger comes from.
“Wagyu is a Japanese breed known for its intense interstitial marbling which creates incredibly tender beef,” Way explains. “If you are familiar with Kobe beef and the famous A5 grade, you could consider Wagyu to be its cousin.”
While they produce delicious meat, Way says they are a tricky breed to raise from a husbandry perspective. “They are spunky, skittish, and require very specific nutrients and care,” she says. They have spent the last decade carefully balancing their herd and genetics to come up with the perfect solution for their beef operation.
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“The key to the success of our beef in the market is the F1 Wagyu-Angus blend,” says Way. They started with a full-blooded Japanese Wagyu herd but found the production costs and resulting products and price points weren’t meeting the needs of their customers. “Full bloods take more than 30 months to finish,” she explains. “And while the meat is melt-in-your-mouth amazing, it’s too difficult for the home cook to work with in the kitchen.”
Rather than call it quits, they decided to cross the Japanese Wagyu with the American Angus. The end result was a beautiful balance of traditional American expectations on cuts and sizes with the spectacular flavor and complexity of Wagyu beef.
“The cross-bred Wagyu-Angus animals require less time from calving to harvesting,” Way says. “And the end products are more user-friendly for people of all cooking abilities. It also results in the flavor profile of the Angus and the interstitial marbling of the Wagyu, which creates tender and delicious beef.”
She says another perk is they can butcher delicious steaks from primal cuts (such as chuck, rib, loin and round) that would be too tough and chewy if butchered from a full-blooded Angus. “The result is that we can offer an assortment of delicious, clean steaks at price points that fit everyone, which is a key value of our company,” Way says.
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Stewardship of Land and Animal
Stewarding their historic property and raising their animals responsibly and sustainably are two of the utmost concerns for Way and her team.
“We love our cows,” she says. “We work with them every single day, know their individual personalities, and can recognize a change in their behavior or appearance and address those needs as they arise. Our goal is to give each of our animals the best life possible on Ovoka and only one bad day.”
That desire for a traditional and quality experience for the animals is why they run their cattle on expansive pastures, supplement with an all-natural and non-GMO feed program specifically formulated for each animal based on age and size, and don’t rush their cattle to finish. The patience and hands-on care that goes into each animal’s final months is what results in the best marbling, and, consequently, flavor.
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Where to Find Ovoka Beef
Way says they are proud to serve everyone from Michelin restaurants and community burger joints to local families. If you live in the area, you can find Ovoka beef at various year-round and seasonal farmers markets. If you aren’t quite so lucky to be within driving distance, you can order everything from individual cuts to monthly subscriptions delivered to your door.
“At the core of our values, in addition to practicing sustainable farming, is a dedication to public service in our community,” adds Way. “One of the key needs is helping the hungry in our community. We believe everyone should have access to our clean beef. And if you can’t afford our products, we are available in numerous area food banks.”
See more: 6 Cattle Breeds You May Not Be Familiar With
The team is also preparing to offer on-site sales at their upcoming retail farm stand. The Beeferie at The O will launch in a new 2,500-square-foot building on the property. Converted from a woodshop, this stand will also feature a full kitchen where the team can host cooking classes, podcasts and other shows.
Locals and tourists can find Ovoka beef on the menu at many restaurants in the area, including Red House Tavern, Field & Main, Salamander Resort, Magnolias at the Mill, Shilling Canning Company, L’Auberge Provencale and The Dabney. Ovoka’s Wagyu beef is also purchased and enjoyed by the executive chef at the Governor’s Mansion in Richmond.